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Electric Bike Guides

eScooter Laws and Regulations In The USA

Don’t worry if you are confused about the laws surrounded electric scooters – it seems much of North America is too, including lawmakers themselves. Even the naming is confusing – just to be clear when this article refers to electric scooters we mean what are also known as kickscooters and not the small step-thru motorbike type objects that can also be referred to as scooters.

Electric scooters have taken the US by storm, having gone from rarity to reality over the last few years, especially public share rentals run by the likes of Bird, Lime and Spin. But these are rentals specifically authorized, usually by particular city authorities, that only authorize the deployment and use of that particular company’s electric scooters.

Rules and regs around use of your own electric scooter need local research to make sure you comply with the law

But what about if you fancy the convenience of owning and using your own electric scooter where you live or work? Unfortunately, the state of electric scooter law is only just beginning to emerge in the United States and varies from state to state and even city to city. But before we take a look at different regulations on electric scooters across the US and Canada and look at the most commonly asked questions about them lets get an overview of federal legislation.

Federal Consumer Law – Safety Standards

Actually there isn’t any Federal Law specifically on electric scooters – The Consumer Product Safety Act of 1972 was amended by Congress in 2001 so there is now a national definition of e-bikes in the US as they are classed as ‘a two- or three-wheeled vehicle with fully operable pedals and an electric motor of fewer than 750 watts (1 h.p.), whose maximum speed on a paved level surface, when powered solely by such a motor while ridden by an operator who weighs 170 pounds, is less than 20 mph (i.e., a low-speed electric bicycle).’

The above doesn’t tell you where the e-bike can be used, it only gives a legal definition of it. Since then People for Bikes has done brilliant work lobbying for the three-class law now adopted by 28 states across the US which does tell e-bike riders where they can ride along and states have also legislated on a host of other issues for e-bikes like whether helmet use and insurance are also mandatory – clearly many of the legal issues relating to e-bike use also relate to electric scooters.

Electric scooter law hasn’t got to this stage as electric scooters are not included in the Consumer Product Act – in other words there are no nationally prescribed legal safety standards. However there is a voluntary codes (in addition to some state and local laws) – the most prominent voluntary safety standard for electric scooters is devised by US company UL. This standard tests and evaluates electrical and fire safety aspects of e-scooters and similar devices such as hoverboards but doesn’t really address mechanical or operational safety.

The American Society for Testing and Materials announced that its Consumer Products Subcommittee on Powered Scooters and Skateboards (F15.58) would bring stakeholders together to discuss and develop a proposed standard on electric-powered scooters that would establish performance requirements and corresponding test methods to minimize common potential hazards associated with electric scooters.

(Thanks to this Crowell Moring article at Lexology which was used to research much of the above section.)

Despite this lack of federal guidance on manufacturing and performance standards, some US states clearly have made an effort to bring their laws up to date with the event of electric scooters on the ground. This NCSL article tells us that as of January 2020, 21 states have enacted laws defining e-scooters and distinguishing them from mopeds and other vehicles requiring registration and insurance.

States With The Clearest eScooter Legislation

It’s fair to say that some states have been quicker than others to pick up on the electric scooter trend and to legislate for it so that people know how and where they can use e-scooters. Let’s take a look at what some US states legislate regarding e-scooters – if your state isn’t covered the listings provide a good guide to the areas you should be researching for your own state and locality.

Some states have no specific e-scooter laws but class them as motor vehicles, for example as mopeds, This can entail requirements for insurance and licencing but it may well in practice prove impossible to obtain such things. All of which throws into relief the impressive efforts the following states have made to clarify the legal position of e-scooters and so facilitate their daily use.

California

California has well-documented e-scooter laws

California was one of the first states to respond to the e-scooter craze and the California Vehicle Code has quite a lot to say about them.

Max Speed Most states set their e-scooter speed limit at 20 mph a few going for 15mph and California is in the latter camp. CVC §22411 regulates e-scooter speed and going over it can result in a $250 ticket.

Helmets Mandatory? For under 18s only

Where are they Allowed? E-scooters must be ridden in bike lanes (or bikeways, bike paths, bicycle paths etc) whenever one is available.

The law only allows for 4 exceptions to riding in a Class II bike lane:

While passing another vehicle or pedestrian,
When completing a left hand turn,
To avoid debris or other hazards in the bike lane, or
When turning right.

They are expressly prohibited from sidewalks and crosswalks.

You cannot operate a motorized scooter on a highway with a speed limit in excess of 25 miles per hour unless the motorized scooter is operated within a Class II or Class IV bikeway, except that a local authority may, by ordinance or resolution, authorize the operation of a motorized scooter outside of a Class II or Class IV bikeway on a highway with a speed limit of up to 35 miles per hour. The 15 mile per hour maximum speed limit for the operation of a motorized scooter specified in Section 22411 applies to the operation of a motorized scooter on all highways, including bikeways, regardless of a higher speed limit applicable to the highway.

Do I Need A Licence and How Old Must I Be?

Operators must be at least 16 years old and have a driver’s license or learner’s permit. Tickets for contravening this are usually around $200.

E-scooters though are exempt from registration, and license plate requirements, and, for those purposes, says the vehicle code ‘a motorized scooter is not a motor vehicle’.

What Equipment Should the eScooter Have?

CVC §21223 mandates:

A lamp emitting a white light which, while the motorized scooter is in motion, illuminates the highway in front of the operator and is visible from a distance of 300 feet in front and from the sides of the motorized scooter.
A red reflector on the rear that is visible from a distance of 500 feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful upper beams of headlamps on a motor vehicle
A white or yellow reflector on each side visible from the front and rear of the motorized scooter from a distance of 200 feet.

Note the front light and rear reflector can be substituted for suitable rider-worn ones.

Effective brakes are mandatory.

Other Rules to Note

CVC §21228 forces E-scooters to turn left by:

Stopping after the intersection on the right curb,
Dismounting, and
Crossing the roadway on foot.

These rules are meant to prevent scooter accidents.

CVC §21221 makes specific mention of driving under the influence of drugs or alcohol. Drunk E-scootering can lead to a DUI charge, as well as a traffic ticket of around $350.

Michigan

Is this an electric skateboard? It is in Michigan, apparently…

Michigan laws are perhaps more typical of how many state laws for electric scooters are arrived at – rather by default through a lack of laws directed at electric scooters, so that they are actually caught by laws aimed at other vehicles. In Michigan’s case they are caught by 2018 legislation enshrined in Michigan’s Vehicle Code apparently aimed at electric skateboards!:

‘An electric skateboard “means a wheeled device that has a floorboard designed to be stood upon when riding that is no more than 60 inches long and 18 inches wide, is designed to transport only 1 person at a time, has an electrical propulsion system with power of no more than 2,500 watts, and has a maximum speed on a paved level surface of not more than 25 miles per hour. An electric skateboard may have handlebars and, in addition to having an electrical propulsion system with power of no more than 2,500 watts, may be designed to also be powered by human propulsion.’ (MCL 257.13f)

The 2.5kw seems insanely generous and the 25mph limit pretty generous too, but what about other regulations?

Helmets Mandatory? According to Michigan electric scooter laws, only a scooter or electric skateboard operator who is under 19 years of age must “wear a crash helmet on his or her head.” (MCL 257.658(4))

Where are they Allowed?

Electric scooters are allowed on public roads but must do the following:

Drive as far to the right side of the road as possible.
Not ride more than 2 abreast.
Use a designated path when required by a local ordinance to do so.
Not pass between lanes of traffic. (MCL 257.660(1), (2), (3) and (4))

Unusually you can ride on a sidewalk but must “yield the right-of-way to a pedestrian” and you must “give an audible signal before overtaking and passing the pedestrian.” (MCL 257.660(5)

Do I Need A Licence / Insurance and How Old Must I Be? It appears licences and insurance are not needed as only vehicles defined in Michigan’s No-Fault auto insurance law must be covered by licencing and car insurance. Electric scooters do not meet the definition of a “motor vehicle”.

Is there an age limit for riding on electric scooters? Yes. Under Michigan electric scooter laws, kids under 12 cannot ride an electric scooter or electric skateboard “on a public highway or street.” (MCL 257.658(9))

According to Michigan electric scooter laws a person driving an electric scooter or an electric skateboard on a public road must do the following:

Drive the electric scooter as far to the right side of the road as possible.
Not ride more than 2 abreast.
Use a designated path when required by a local ordinance to do so.
Not pass between lanes of traffic. (MCL 257.660(1), (2), (3) and (4))

What Equipment Should the eScooter Have?

If riding on the road between 1/2 hour after sunset and 1/2 hour before sunrise then you must have a white-light, front lamp that is visible from a distance of at least 500 feet to the front and a rear, red reflector or a rear, red-light lamp visible from a distance of 500 feet to the rear…” (MCL 257.662(1))

Whatever the intention of the 2018 lawmakers it appears they have created some of the most liberal electric scooter laws in the US, be it by accident or not…

Note Michigan Auto Law’s help notes on this subject were used to research the above.

Indiana & Illinois

Indiana has Lead the Way in the eScooter Mid-west and Illinois Looks Like it Will Follow

Indiana’s main e-scooter legal provisions, according to Avnet Law, are:

You CANNOT ride an electric scooter on the sidewalk, Cultural Trail or any of the Greenways.
You must ride the electric scooter on the street, following all normal traffic laws, including:
- You can ride in the bike lane;
- You cannot travel the wrong way on a one way street
Helmets are recommended but not yet required

Neighbouring Illinois also appears to have regulations midway through state government approval:

Operators must be at least 16 years old and have a valid driver’s license, instruction permit, or State identification card.
You can ride anywhere you can ride a bicycle, such as bicycle lanes and bicycle paths – the Illinois law will give the electric scooter operator “all of the rights and shall be subject to all of the duties applicable to the rider of a bicycle;
E-scooters will have to have lamps and reflectors for use at nighttime and require brakes.

New York City

New York state has had a turbulent history when it comes to explicit bans of various kinds of electric micromobility. However, as of 2020, riders can once again operate electric scooters that can travel up to 20 mph on the streets of NYC, granted that they’re over 16 years old and wear helmets if they’re under 18.

Main rules and regs are now include the following:

E-scooters must weigh less than 100lbs
They can be used on roads with posted limits of 30mph or less and on greenways and bike paths (New York State has over 1200 miles of multi-use trails and these can be used by e-scooters unless locally disallowed). They can’t be used on sidewalks unless locally authorised
If under 18 helmet wearing is mandatory
Local municipalities can opt out / disallow e-scooters

Town and City Jurisdictions

Do always check both your state and local regulations – local regulations can vary state laws on e-scooters or in some cases they can choose to ban them altogether as has happened in places such as Beverley Hills or Bossier to give just two examples amongst many.

Learn The Laws Before You Ride

While some states are to be commended in clarifying the lines on what is and isn’t allowed on an escooter, not all 50 states have reached the same level yet. Do some research at the state, county, and local level before you rent or purchase a scooter of your own. If the laws aren’t clearly defined, see if you can reach out to your legislators or any local groups advocating for clear laws to be made. As always, remain safe above all else, and have fun while you ride!

What Is The Best Budget eBike?

With e-bikes offering better value than ever and companies now fiercely competing for who can come up with the best value offering in the value stakes, it can be pretty confusing trying to narrow down just how much you should spend and what features you should expect – even if you are on a pretty tight budget.

Here we try and demystify the topic by breaking budget e-bikes down into two broad price categories, low budget and lower mid-range to see just what you might expect to see in each category, whilst picking out the best value bikes out what we consider to be the very best value e-bikes out there.

Low Budget eBikes – US$1000 / £1000

Undoubtedly the hardest category to actually pick a bike in as there will be a lot of poorer quality e-bikes below these price points. EBR tends not to recommend many e-bikes below these price points and they have to stand out from the crowd. There are even e-bikes out there for just a few hundred $ but these may well be even more compromised in design or manufacturing quality than the slightly higher priced ones which themselves can be very poor. Amazon and Ebay are full of such cheaper e-bikes.

Typical purchaser complaints you might find include parts that last only a few months (including more expensive consumables like the lithium-ion battery), motors that feel underpowered compared to what they were expecting, having to deal directly with an company in Asia and waiting several weeks for replacement parts. Communication may be by email only and you may not be sure exactly who you are dealing with and where they are or what your warranty terms are (if any).

All this isn’t to say there aren’t satisfied buyers out there who have purchased such e-bikes; they may even get a few years use from their Ebay purchase but no doubt the majority of these e-bikes end up broken and at the back of the garage or at the refuse tip much more quickly than higher priced e-bikes. In other words it can be a haphazard affair.
[Read more…] about What Is The Best Budget eBike?

How to Buy an Electric Bike

New to the world of electric bikes? Welcome.

The bicycling world is going through a bit of a reckoning right now. Or maybe it’s growing pains; it’s hard to say.

Even before a pandemic drove everyone outside (and drove bike sales through the roof) the budding popularity of electric bikes had been attracting newcomers to bicycling in droves. E-bikes have democratized the cycling world, opening the door for people who previously wrote off the sport (and mode of transport) as a pastime of lycra-clad fitness enthusiasts. Bikes equipped with small motors and batteries are changing the shape of what is possible on two wheels and by who; making bicycling more accessible, less intimidating and flatly more fun for beginners and experienced riders alike.

The bicycling world is booming and we’ve got e-bikes to thank. So if you’re new here, welcome.

But with this new tech (and all these new people) has come a void of knowledge. E-bikes are complicated, and things like amperage, motor type and watt hours can be foreign concepts to the uninitiated. So, we wrote a guide to help with that.

This electric bike buyer’s guide will help you navigate the budding e-bike market and choose which bike is right for you. From commuters to cruisers and drive systems to laws, we’ll cover the basics of what you need to know before opening your wallet.

Want to jump to a specific topic? Here’s links to specific sections of this guide.

E-bikes 101: Understanding motors, batteries and drive systems
How do you control an e-bike motor
Where can (and can’t) I ride my e-bike? The three-class system and why it matters
E-bikes 102: Torque, watts, watt hours, volts, Et al.
The most important part: How to choose the right e-bike for you

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E-bikes 101: Understanding motors, batteries and drive systems

Since the first person tried to slap an electric motor on a bicycle in the late 1800’s, the core concept of an e-bike hasn’t changed much. It’s a normal bicycle (or sometimes a trike) with an added boost when a rider turns the pedals.

But there are some important things to know about e-bikes before shelling out your hard-earned cash. Let’s start with the most obvious components of an e-bike: the motorized drive system and the electronics powering it.

Here’s a breakdown of the basic components of an e-bike drive system:

An electric motor, usually mounted in the front hub, rear hub or inside the bottom bracket of the frame (known as a mid-drive.) Each mounting point has specific purposes and can change the ride characteristics of the bike. A rear mounted motor, for example, is typically the torquiest and delivers power directly to the rear wheel; a mid-drive bike is better balanced and can more closely replicate the feeling of riding an analogue bicycle; and a front wheel motor, the rarest of the bunch, is typically reserved for cargo bikes or trikes, where mounting a motor in the back may not be an option.
A battery, most commonly mounted on or in the front triangle of the bike’s frame. Among the most important features to consider on an e-bike, the battery quality and size determines how long you’ve got until your e-bike turns into a really heavy normal bike. A multitude of factors affects battery life, including battery size, a rider’s style, terrain and even weather.
The controller dictates how your e-bike’s motor interprets input from the rider and accordingly applies power. Think of this as your e-bike’s brain: You apply pressure to the pedals or twist the throttle, and the controller tells the motor to apply power at a (hopefully) safe and proportional rate.
A speed, cadence or torque sensor is a device that detects pedaling on a pedal assist e-bike and tells the motor to kick on. Some bikes will come with a combination of these sensors, but there are distinct differences in how each works
- A speed sensor engages the motor relative to the bike’s speed. So, the higher the speed the higher the output from the motor, even when you’re going downhill.
- A cadence sensor detects movement at the bike’s cranks, and engages the motor when you start pedaling. In some cases, bikes are programmed to adjust the power output from the motor based on pedaling speed.
- A torque sensor, the most refined of the bunch, uses a strain gauge to measure how much force a rider is putting into the pedals. The motor will increase or decrease its output relative to how hard you pedal. This type of sensor typically engages quickest and smoothest.

Those four things added together (and bolted onto a bicycle frame) are the core ingredients of an e-bike and constitute its non-human drive system.

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How do you control an e-bike motor?

There are two primary ways an e-bike rider can engage their bike’s motor.

The first, and the most common, is simply by pedaling the bike. This type of motor control, called pedal-assist or a pedelec (short for “pedal electric bicycle”), is where an e-bike’s motor responds to force applied at the pedals, adding an additional boost to a rider’s natural pedaling ability.

Depending on the bike, motor and how the controller is programmed, this added boost can feel like a relatively gentle compliment to your natural pedaling ability, or, in the case of more powerful e-bikes, like you’re on a small pedal-powered rocketship.

Some e-bikes also include a user-controlled throttle, allowing a rider to engage the motor on demand. This is the second way some e-bike’s give riders control over a bike’s motor. The throttle is typically a thumb-controlled lever mounted on the handlebar, capable of controlling the motor while coasting or while at a complete stop, similar to a moped. An e-bike equipped with a throttle typically also has pedal-assist capabilities, though there are some exceptions that are throttle only.

Where can (and can’t) I ride my e-bike? The three-class system and why it matters

E-bikes, at their core, are designed to give people the ability to ride their bicycle further, faster and easier, regardless of their expertise riding a bike or their physical fitness.

But e-bikes do present a bit of a conundrum. On one hand, they effectively are democratizing the cycling world, making bikes more accessible to more people and for more uses. But on the other hand, their increased speed and power presents a safety problem, especially in areas like mixed-use paths and trails with heavy pedestrian traffic.

These safety concerns have led to the development of the three-class system for regulating e-bike access, which places restrictions on certain types of e-bikes based on their motor operation, wattage and maximum assisted speed. About half of U.S. states have adopted e-bike laws and regulations based on the three-class system, and bike advocacy organizations like PeopleForBikes are pushing model legislation centered on the classes. Europe uses its own variation of the class system which is more widely adopted than what you’ll find in the U.S.

The U.S. classes are:

Class 1: Pedal assist only and the motor cuts off at 20 mph (you can pedal yourself to quicker speeds). These are typically allowed anywhere you can ride a non-motorized bicycle.
Class 2: The motor is controlled by a throttle that can be operated when you’re not pedaling. The motor on these also cuts off at 20 mph and they’re typically allowed anywhere you can ride a non-motorized bicycle.
Class 3: The motor on a Class 3 e-bike will power you until 28 mph before it cuts off, but it can only be operated to that speed with pedal assistance. This class of e-bike can also include a throttle, but that throttle is limited to 20 mph and you’ll have to pedal to make the motor go any faster. These must also be equipped with a speedometer and are typically limited to use on road-adjacent bike lanes and in roadways themselves.

All classes limit the bike’s motor to 750w sustained, almost exactly one horsepower. Though the three class system is not universal in the U.S. (yet), most e-bike manufacturers and sellers have subscribed to this system.

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E-bikes 102: Torque, watts, watt hours, volts, Et al.

By now, you’ve got the basics of what makes an e-bike an e-bike and you’re ready to dive further into the weeds.

Like a car, the size, strength and power of an e-bike’s motor and battery can vary greatly from model to model. Even changing one component in the drive system can drastically change how it performs.

The below list of variables and terms are how e-bike manufacturers describe their motor and battery systems. By grasping them, you can get a rough picture of how a given bike might perform (at least on paper).

Torque is the rotational force produced by the motor, usually measured in Newton meters (Nm). On an e-bike, torque is particularly important for acceleration and going up hills.
Volts are, in essence, a measure of electrical pressure inside a battery. The measure is commonly explained using this analogy: If a battery is a water tank, the voltage would be the water pressure built up inside. The higher the pressure inside the tank (or volts inside a battery), the quicker water (electricity) will flow from the tank (battery) and at higher volumes. To sum it up: The higher an e-bike battery’s voltage, the more power is available to the motor and quicker.
Amps (short for ampere) is the basic unit used to measure electrical current. What this describes is the constant rate of flow of electricity out of a battery. The higher the amperage, the more electricity is flowing.
Amp hours: Going back to the water analogy, amp hours describe the size of the water tank. The larger the tank — or, in the case of e-bikes, the larger the battery — the more water there is for use. This unit of measurement tells you exactly how much amperage a battery can sustain for one hour. For example, a 10Ah rated battery can expend 10 amps of power in an hour before it’s drained. That rate can also be accelerated or decelerated, so the same battery can expend 20 amps in a half-hour or 5 amps over two hours.
Watts (often shortened to just a “w”) are to e-bikes what horsepower is to cars. It’s a measure of how much power the motor produces. The three-class system in the U.S. allows e-bikes to sustain up to 750w, though many motors can produce short bursts much higher than that. For context, a typical professional road cyclist might average between 300w and 400w during a race, so e-bike motors are plenty strong.
Watt hours (Wh for short) describes how much energy is available in a battery for exactly one hour. A battery rated for 480Wh, for example, is going to have a battery capable of producing 480 watts for exactly one hour before it runs out. Combine that with a 750w motor, the legal maximum in the U.S., and that same battery would be able to run the motor at max throttle for about two-thirds of an hour before it runs dead.

So why do these terms matter? Because added together and applied to specific e-bike drive systems, the above concepts can help you get an idea of what a bike’s motor and battery are theoretically capable of.

But, don’t put too much faith in a bike’s spec sheet. Measures like amp hours and watt hours can be deceiving, and variables like temperature or the number of hills on your ride can wildly affect the performance of a bike’s motor and battery. When it comes to truly knowing how a bike will perform, there’s no substitution for actually riding it.

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The most important part: How to choose the right e-bike for you

At the end of the day, an e-bike is just like a normal bike. It rolls, it pedals and it takes you where you want to go.

So just like buying a non-motorized bike, there is one question you must answer before buying that is paramount to all others: What do you want to do with the bike?

Seriously. Think long and hard on this one. Salespeople and bike brands will tell you all day they’ve got a bike that can handle anything, but the truth is there is no one bike that can do it all. There are examples where one bike can shine across multiple categories — a fat-tire folding e-bike, for example, makes for a nice urban commuter that can also handle some light off-road use. But it won’t make for a good cargo bike and it’s not going to keep pace with a lightweight electric road bike, no matter how big a motor you put in it.

In total I’ve spent more than a decade turning wrenches and slinging bikes at shops across the American southwest and this, by far, is the most important question I asked when a prospective bike buyer walked in the door. It’s also one of the toughest to answer.

Many first-time e-bike buyers won’t know the different categories of bikes, or why it might be worth spending a bit more (or less) money to get something actually capable of accomplishing their goals. If you fall in this group, or just feel a little lost in the broad world of e-bikes, here’s a breakdown of the different categories of e-bike and what they’re for:

Step-thru frame e-bikes
More of a frame style and less of an e-bike type, a step-thru frame e-bikes features a low-slung frame that is easier to mount. This style is typical of cruiser and commuter e-bikes, and is a friendly design for people with limited hip mobility, back issues or those that might need to wear work clothes when they ride.
Folding e-bikes
Popular in Europe and a novelty in the United States, folding e-bikes are good for people who want to store the bike in a compact space like a trunk or RV, or who might need to stow their bike in a cramped office space. Like the name suggests, a folding e-bike literally folds up and, in some cases, becomes quite small. Though comfortable for a full-size adult, the bikes are physically smaller and usually feature smaller diameter wheels — which can change the handling characteristics and your riding position.
Fat-tire e-bikes
Fat-tire e-bikes are the monster trucks of the bike world. As the name suggests, the tires are wider than usual — typically about 3 to 4 inches wide. This style of bike was developed to ride over snow with ease, but it can also handle sand and other variable terrain quite well. The fat tires are confidence inspiring, but the extra rubber amounts to more rolling resistance and rotational weight, so they’re not particularly energy efficient.
Cargo and utility e-bikes
If you thought an e-bike could never replace your minivan, think again. Cargo and utility e-bikes are pedal-powered behemoths capable of ferrying hundreds of pounds of cargo and people. They’re also the quirkiest of the e-bike family (which is saying something after seeing some folding bikes) and come in many different configurations; almost all of which have a wheelbase long enough to fit a cargo area fore or aft of the rider.
Cruiser e-bikes
From low and slow on the Mission Beach Boardwalk to quick and comfy on the bike path, cruiser e-bikes blend classic styling with e-bike efficiency. But before e-bikes became popular, I’d be dishonest if I didn’t acknowledge the number of would-be cruiser buyers I talked out of purchasing this style of bike. Why? Because they’re so dang inefficient to pedal. That all changed when companies started pairing the cruiser style with e-bike drive systems. Now, with the brunt of the pedaling power handled by a motor, the comfort and laid-back styling of these bikes can really shine.
Electric mountain bikes (eMTBs)
Exactly as the name suggests, electric mountain bikes are the technical off-road iteration of e-bike. Designed to handle drops, steep climbs and rock gardens with a little added boost, eMTBs are surging in popularity. The motors are specially tuned to handle the punchy, torquey type of power required to clear steep hills and obstacles. There are also more lightweight variations as companies like Specialized and Orbea target e-bike riders who want a more nimble and natural ride. These are typically Class 1 e-bikes, though you can find some Class 2 iterations.
Electric road bikes
“Superbike” is a term thrown around often these days in the bicycling world, probably too often. But in the case of high-end electric road bikes, superbike might be exactly the right way to describe them. These are the Ferraris of the bicycling world and at their highest price points they feature the exact same technology and aerodynamic advantages of Tour de France winning race bikes, but with a small electric motor melded into the bottom bracket. In short, they’re very fast (and very fun), though you’re still going to have to pedal hard to get the most out of them. These are almost exclusively Class 1 e-bikes with smaller motors and batteries.
Electric gravel bikes
The newest iteration of e-bike (and, really, the newest iteration of bicycle in general), electric gravel bikes are performance-oriented rigs designed around pedaling efficiency and speed on gravel roads. They’re typically drop-bar bikes that closely resemble their road bike brethren, but with a few key differences like increased tire clearance and brakes that can operate well in mud and dust. Motors on these are typically small and refined to compliment a rider’s natural pedaling, rather than overpower it. Expect to still work on one of these, as they are also primarily Class 1.

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Summary

Again, think long and hard about what you want to do with your e-bike. Do you want something that can fold up and easily fit in your RV’s underfloor storage compartment? Something reliable and fast (Commuter Electric Bikes) to get you to and from work? Are you the type to don lycra riding gear and knock out 60 miles on a Saturday morning, but want a little boost to compliment your pedaling?

If this sounds like a lot to consider, or just unrealistic considering so many bike brands are direct-to-consumer, we’re here to help. ElectricBikeReport.com’s experienced staff (About Us) of e-bike enthusiasts, riders and racers puts bikes thought their paces on our home roads, trails and paths in southwest Utah to give you a clear picture of how bikes perform in the real world.

We follow industry news (Most Recent News) to keep tabs on latest developments in e-bike technology; suss out the best e-bikes across all categories; and make content that will teach you how to maintain your e-bike (or when it’s time to take it into a shop).

So if you’re new here, welcome to the world of e-bikes. We’re happy you’re here.

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Got an e-bike already but want to carry more with it? Bike trailers are a superb resource and a natural fit with the extra power offered by e-bikes. If you have ever tried cycling with a regular (ie non-electric) bike and a very heavy trailer load up a steep hill you will know this is a task for only the very fit, especially if it is something you want to do on a regular basis.

Some e-bikers might have safety concerns about towing a trailer or think it adds an extra layer of difficulty or unnecessary complication to using your e-bike but that really shouldn’t be the case if you bear in mind a few basic tips. The main complication lies in making sure your particular e-bike will take the hitching system of the particular trailer you want. Once you’re over this stage you should find a good trailer transforms just what you can carry on your e-bike.

eCargo Bikes VS Trailers

eCargo bikes are undeniably great but may not be for everyone; you may simply not have the space or the means to manoeuvre and store what can be quite lengthy and heavy vehicles. And it remains pretty hard to find a budget e-cargo bike so a budget e-bike and budget trailer remains one of the most economical and greenest cargo carrying solutions out there.

Qualities Of Well-Desgined Bike Trailers

Construction Quality

The HBS Mini is typical of the build quality of the cheapest trailers, with axle and towbar bolted to a plastic box.

The strength and weight of the materials used in construction are the biggest clues. The very cheapest designs such as the HBS pictured above use a plastic box as part of the construction. Whilst this keeps things light, simple and cheap, it may bring some compromises as in this design, where you are relying on the main plastic box itself to act as the mounting point for wheels and towbar.

Superbly made and virtually indestructible – the Surly Ted

By contrast, the welded all steel construction of the Surly Ted trailer is mighty strong.

Surly’s Ted trailer is rated at 136kg – many times more than what an average trailer will take and an indication of the incredible build quality

The load rating of a trailer may also give some indication of its quality; most trailer ratings don’t exceed around 90lbs / 40kg although note this is just a rough indication. The incredibly solidly built Surly Ted trailer actually has a rating of 300lbs / 136kg (!) but this really way in advance of what a serial production e-bike could manage, but it does give an indication of the massive strength of the trailer and the great quality construction.

Does it Have Alternative Hitch Fittings that Will Cope with Different Frame and Axle Designs?

Whether a trailer will fit your particular e-bike depends on both the trailer and e-bike. Better trailer manufacturers will have a range of hitch solutions to suit different bike frame and axle designs and these should be clearly explained and set out on their website.

Quick Release Skewers

Still probably the commonest axle fittings on e-bikes. Some trailer manufacturers provide a fitting that can be secured between the QR’s lever cam as is the case with Burley’s Steel Hitch and this example from Wike:

Others provide a replacement quick release skewer of their own design with a hitch attachment point built into it as in the example above from ExtraWheel which allows for attachment on the small cylindrical sections at both ends. In instances where the trailer comes with a complete replacement QR skewer it’s important to make sure it is the same length as your existing one that it will replace. Most QR rear skewers are made to fit a standard rear dropout of 130mm (road) or 135mm (MTB) width.

To double check remove your rear wheel and measure the distance between the internal faces of the frame as shown above, this example being 125mm. Typical quick-release axles are 11 or 12 mm longer than the spacing of the hub locknuts which should give around 5-6 mm of axle protrusion on each side.

Classic ‘Solid’ Axles

The Burley steel hitch fitted to a solid axle

If you have an e-bike with a rear hub motor or hub gears it will probably feature a solid threaded axle with nuts holding the wheel in place. Some hitch attachments like the Burley Steel Hitch will simply slide behind the nut before you attach it, as long as you have enough threaded axle protruding to firmly resecure the nut. If you are getting replacement nuts with the trailer it’s best to confirm the diameter x thread pitch measurement of your bike axle – most modern solid rear axles are 10mm x 1mm but if you have an older bike it might be worth double checking by seeing if a 10 x 1 nut will fit as they are inexpensive to buy at a local bike store.

Surly’s Ted and Bill trailers require these custom nuts if attaching to a solid axle

Other trailer designs will send you an entirely new nut or set of nuts with their own unique design with which to attach the trailer such as the Surly ones picture above.

Thru Axles

Burley have a range of their own replacement thru-axles to go with their trailers

Thru axles have gained in popularity as they are marketed as being stronger and more rigid than the existing quick release skewer system. Usually 12mm in diameter, they come in a variety of lengths so you need to measure your rear thru axle and check with the trailer manufacturer if they have a replacement axle or and add on fitting that ill let you use the trailer in question.

The Robert Axle Project have a great range of ready made thru-axles that make bikes and e-bikes with thru-axles trailer capable. This particular example is a hitch for a Thule Chariot child trailer.

The Robert Axle Project, who manufacture their products in Bend, Oregon, have this handy table that allows you to attach a wide range of trailer designs to your e-bike. Even if you can’t find exactly your trailer and e-bike combo on the table do enquire of them as they may well have something that fits. Do also check the trailer manufacturers’ website as they may stock Robert Axle Project products as after-market fittings so you will be sure to get the right one.

A word of warning though – do be aware that you are screwing thru-axles directly into your bike frame so make sure to get exactly the right thread and not to overtighten the axle. It could be an expensive mistake.

Hooded Dropouts & The Burley Classic Hitch

Some bike and e-bike frames further complicate adding a trailer hitch by having a ‘hooded’ rear drop out which makes it trickier to fit the hitch snug up to the frame. Burley have clearly anticipated this with their as shown in the video below. The video also features the Burley Classic hitch that is unusual in fitting around the frame itself rather than than onto the axle – it can useful to swap a trailer between different bikes quickly through it is not compatible with disc brakes.

Does it Have Attachment Points for Lights and a Flag?

Some trailers have designated light mounting points and may also come with a safety flag, indicating they have been made with safety in mind.

Tips for Towing

Load Safely and Ride Carefully

Try and place your cargo centrally over the load-bearing wheels; on a two-wheeler of standard design that usually means between the trailer axles. Experiment with how far forwards or backwards you put the load on the trailer bed. Too far back and you may lose traction on the rear bike wheel as the load trys to lift it off the ground and too far forward and you will again find the handling of the bike badly affected. A little practice means you usually find the sweet spot on your trailer.

Also if loading several items place larger heavier items towards the bottom of the trailer and more centrally.

The heavier the load the more you should moderate your speed. Excessive speed is not advised (especially downhill) with heavy loads.

Make Sure of a Strong Hitch

The hitch is a point of high stress, especially if hauling heavy loads, as it has to articulate for turns but also be strong enough to take the constant push-pull forces between the bike and trailer as it is towed along.

The seat post hitch is convenient and fitted and many budget models but it’s not suitable for very heavy loads as it may start to destabilize the bike and affect steering. Having said that the Burley Travoy, as featured below, mounts to a rear rack and is a classic and very practical design.

Single-sided hitches vary in strength and design but look for a solidly engineered one with large fittings. A good design allows movement in all planes with little or no flexing.

The trailer bar has to move independently of trailer or bike and a flexible element near the hitch is one way to achieve this. Note this example also has a fail safety strap which is another indication of a manufacturer’s attention to detail.

Some designs may use a spring or flexible tube or similar to reduce stress on the surrounding parts and act as a kind of shock absorber when under the most load – the movement should be pretty minimal though. This is only really for lighter loads, say up to 25kg. The heavier the load with this kind of design the more unstable the ride may feel as the movement within the flexible parts will be greater. You may be unlucky enough to develop a ‘snake’ from side to side at higher speeds which you definitely want to avoid. Still, many of these designs are fine for lighter loads ridden with reasonable care.

Surly’s system has a yoke attaching to both sides of the axle and a hitch mechanism that articulates in two planes to allow for the trailer rolling and pitching along behind you. It’s super strong and works very well.

Without doubt one of the strongest hitch designs, if not the strongest, is the one that attaches to both sides of the axle. The Surly system as above, used on their super hefty Bill and Ted models is a wonderful example of this type of design.

Get the Right eBike

The powerful crank drive motors found on many current e-bikes are a great choice for load carrying but larger hub motors geared for high torque can also do a good job. For very heavy load hauling go for the crank motors with the highest torque ratings; I’ve used Bosch’s Performance Line CX to tow heavy loads a number of times and been impressed but Brose, Shimano and Yamaha also have powerful options.

Nicely graduated powerful brakes are a must (hydraulic disc brakes are pretty much the new standard on e-bikes nowadays and help massively to make them effective load carriers).

For heavy loads, a well-built e-bike is a must and bikes with wider rims and tires will also help keep things stable and handleable. Strong rims and wide tyres are found on numerous hybrid and mountain bike style e-bikes and also tend to have strong spokes. Naturally, lightweight, racing-style e-bikes are less likely to be good pullers of very heavy loads. If you ride an e-bike that feels stable and solid and handles easily without a load it is likely to do so with a load!

Guard Against Punctures

Whilst low tyre pressure or even a flat may not be noticeable on a lightly loaded trailer, with heavier loads you need to minimize the risk of punctures, preferably with strong tyres with some kind of puncture proofing like kevlar and / or slime.

It’s also a good idea to have a plan B – is the trailer easy to chock up and remove a wheel? Do you carry tools and inner tube for the job? Getting stuck with a very heavy trailer and a flat wouldn’t be much fun, but with a bit of preparation, it shouldn’t be a big deal.

Carrying Children

This Croozer model features bright colours and a visibility flag with plenty of space between side wheels and fabric – all good safety features.

All the above tips apply to carrying children in a child trailer. Bear in mind that you won’t be able to directly see the trailer much of the time so a bike mirror could well be a good addition to your handlebars.

Other tips to further allay safety concerns pick a very brightly colored model with plenty of reflective striping – these tend to be usual features of child trailers anyway and also go for one with a large flag. You can also of course be careful with your route choices and avoid heavily trafficked ones.

There’s now a large range of child trailers that will also double as strollers too. We only cover specific cargo trailers in the trailers section below as there will be a full forthcoming post on child carrying solutions.

The Trailers

Here we take a look at the major manufacturers of different designs of cargo trailers in each of the classes below. Note this section is based on the recognized manufacturers of good quality trailers in their field; there may be a number of ‘copycat’ designs out there that cost less but the models featured here all have a reputation for good quality and good customer backup.

Single Wheelers

Good for lighter loads where maneuverability is important. Single-wheelers follow directly in-line with your bike and are usually narrower than the bike, so they are useful for an off-road single track or very narrow bike paths with narrow access points and pinch points. They do put more of the trailer load on your bike’s rear-wheel so for heavier loads they are not as suitable as two-wheelers.

B.O.B Gear

Veterans of trailer production, South Carolina’s B.O.B produces two single wheelers that accommodate an optional bespoke, single large waterproof bag.

The Yak

Construction: 4130 CroMoly Steel
Trailer Size: 63.5 l x 16.5 w x 56 h inches
Weight: 19lbs / 8.6kg
Weight Rating: 32kg / 70lb
Price: From US$339

The Ibex.

Construction: 4130 CroMoly Steel with suspension unit
Trailer Size: 63.5 l x 16.75 w x 62 h inches
Weight:
Weight Rating: 32kg / 70lb
Price: From US$409

Burley COHO XC

Burley’s COHO XC is feature-packed and includes a kickstand

Burley’s take on an adventure/utility themed single wheeler is packed full of features including a kickstand, flexible hitch system for hubs 126-197mm wide, single-handed release mech and a host of mounting points for other accessories.

Construction: Aluminum alloy frame with coil-sprung suspension.
Trailer Size: 66.5 l x 17 w x 21 h inches (1690 x 430 x 540 mm)
Weight / capacity: 19lbs / 9.74kg 70 litres
Weight Rating: 70lb / 32kg
Price: From US$449.99

Extrawheel

Extra wheel is largely just that – an extra wheel plus two large panniers

A unique, lightweight Polish design that gets get almost universally good write ups from world touring types who value the large capacity and the relatively light weight. The spec below is for one of the larger capacity models, the BRAVE Drifter

Construction: Steel with 26, 28 or 29 inch wheel to match your rear wheel size
Trailer Size: 50 inches long including yoke (1280 mm)
Weight/ capacity: 5.7kg / 100 litres
Weight Rating: 35kg
Price: €570.00

Free Parable T2

A very neat, lightweight trailer that I’ve used for e-mtb touring and highly recommended though pricey.

Construction: 6061 aluminum with high-quality welding
Trailer Size: 63.5 l x 16.75 w inches (1613 x 426 mm)
Weight: 5.2kg
Weight Rating: 30kg / 66lb
Price: From UK£424.95

Topeak Journey

Designed for bikes with a 130 mm or 135 mm rear dropout and with 26”, 27.5”, 29” or 700c wheels.

Construction: Aluminum alloy frame
Trailer Size: 61.8 l x 17 w x 54 h inches (1570 x 420 x 447 mm)
Weight / capacity: 19lbs / 6.45kg with drybag 65 litres
Weight Rating: 70lb / 32kg
Price: From around £280 US$375

Tout Terrain Mule

Tout Terrain’s Mule features adjustable air suspension indicates a high-quality system and it also has an optional kickstand.

The Mule has an interesting seatpost linkage design which this While Out Riding review really liked for its smooth ride.

Construction: Cromoly Steel frame
Trailer Size: N/A
Weight: 6.7kg
Weight Rating: 38kg
Price: €525.00

The Maya single-wheeler has an interesting wheelbarrow style design

Other single wheel designs include those from Adventure, Aevon and the interesting looking ‘wheelbarrow’-style Maya.

Last but not least is the Quietkat take on a forest activities style model:

Two Wheelers – Everyday Use

Whilst heavier and more cumbersome than single wheelers, two wheel cargo trails are the go-to option for every day use where rough off-road riding and narrow access aren’t big issues.

Croozer

Croozer cargo trailers can convert into hand carts

German based company offering good value for money over a range of three alloy and canvas foldable models, the Calle (92 litres capacity), Pakko and Tuure (both 135l capacity the latter having suspension). They also have a handy handcart feature that means they quickly convert into a shopping cart. Accessories include baby seats and dog beds.

Construction: Alloy frame and canvas sides
Trailer Size: 71 x 64 x 54 cm to 82 x 75 x 63 cm
Weight: 8kg-10.6
Weight Rating: 45kg
€360-507

Free Parable T1

The Free Parable T1 is an unusual suitcase design of trailer that has retractable wheels for use as a regular piece of luggage.

A clever combination of cycle trailer and concourse luggage as the T1’s small rear wheels are retracted and it becomes a wheeled suitcase. Its 8in wheels are fine for tarmac but not great for rougher surfaces as they may flip over. Unlike models with mid-frame axles, it puts more load weight on the bikes rear wheels which might affect handling with heavier loads. Handy for everyday tasks and light touring.

Construction: Alloy frame with retractable wheels
Trailer Size: 46.5 l x 19.8 w x 18.5 h inches (1180 x 502 x 470mm)
Weight: 6.4kg
Weight Rating: 20kg advised in reviews
Price: UK £294.75

Radical Design Cyclone IV Trailers

The Radical Design has a strong bag option with removable wheels so it has potential to covert into a backpack

Radical design’s cyclone bike trailer comes in four varants and all have the same clever, quick-release towball attachment, which will fit most axles. You can get the bare alloy frame and build your own bed or box to go on it or opt for a canvas style bed with lashings or bag options. The Chubby version is squarer in design and made to accommodate a Brompton.

Very cleverly, the bag versions are made to accommodate to quick release wheels and towbar so it becomes a large bag even having the option of a backpack harness.

Construction: Cromoly Steel frame
Trailer Size: 132 x 65 x 40 cm (36.8 x 26 x 16″) for the Skeleton version
Weight: 4.1 kg frame wheels and towbar only. Several variants exist eg flatbed (5.25kg) and Cyclone IV touring model (5.54kg)
Weight Rating: 40kg
Price: From US$440-US$625

WIKE – High-sided DIY

WIKE produce a nice range of DIY assembly models

With a factory n Guelph, Ontario, Canada WIKE make a variety of trailers that are worth checking out but we detail this DIY option as it looks extra good value if you fancy the DIY aspect. It also gives you great flexibility in how you configure the trailer. We couldn’t find the full spec online but at 45kg payload it looks sizeable and rugged.

Roland’s Carrie Me allows for stacking and securing its own sturdy boxes on top of each other

Other two-wheeled cargo trailers to check out include the Burley Nomad which has an optional ‘roof rack’ for extra carrying, the remarkable folding Carry Freedom LEAF as demonstrated in the video below, Roland’s Modular Carrie M.e. and Webers’s Super Luxury Cargo Comfort with its own run on brake.

Shopper / Handcart Style

Shopper style trailers are a rare breed but easy to store when not in use and really handy for lightweight shopping and errands

Burley Travoy

You will need to actually add your own bag to this model from Burley but it folds down super small for super easy storage suiting those with an absolute minimum of space.

Andersen Shopper

Denmark’s Andersen make a huge range of shooper style bags that can easily be converted to be towed with a seatpost hitch. They will even fit on the front of a shopping trolley.

Heavy Duty and Specialist Models

A small number of firms make extra large heavy-duty trailers – you’d be amazed what you can move by e-bike and trailer if you have the money and space for one of these amazing creations.

Bikes at Work

Iowa-based Bikes at Work make three standard lengths of alloy framed trailers, 32,64 and 96 inches long with standard and wide width options too. Four-wheeled versions are rated to carry up to 280kg!

Donkey Trailers

Belgian-based Donkey use a modular system that can go up to 2.4m long and are modular and even give you the ability to add extra wheels!

Surly Bill & Ted

These are superbly well built trailers that come as steel flatbeds for you to build your own solution onto. Pretty heavy and expensive but virtually indestructible…See our full review of the Ted.

Wike

As well as their ‘everyday’ range of trailers WIKE also manufacture a range of lightweight canoe and kayak trailers.

Croozer’s Dog Jokke model

Dog trailers are a further specialist design with Croozer having a nice range. Dog trailers tend to be enclosed designs to keep your dog out of harm’s way but with specialist features like removable and washable inserts or DoggyRide’s anti tip model to counteract the danger of tipping if your dog gets a little too excited!

Stay tuned for more e-bike news and reviews and thanks for reading!

-Rich