E-Bike Batteries: Volts, Amps, & Watt Hours Explained
Feb 12, 2023
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What Are These Volts, Amps, and Watt-Hours? How Battery Specifications and Capacity Equate to Capability and Cost
Understanding e-bike batteries can be challenging, even for those of us in the know; the nitty-gritty details are figured out by electrical engineers with years of education and experience under their collective belts – and for good reason, it’s all chemistry and math over there!
You’ll encounter a host of terms when reading about e-bikes or looking at electric bike battery specifications: things like battery size, capacity, voltage, amp hours and watt hours. Some of these words are more-or-less interchangeable, others are related but distinct. All of them can be confusing, but they are also hugely important in understanding electric bikes and their capabilities – most notably when trying to interpret how far they can take you before needing to be recharged. Range is a big deal for most of our readers, and if an e-bike is going to perform well on our range tests and have a shot a being listed among the top e-bikes, then a quality battery is a must.
In this guide to e-bike batteries, the helpful writers at Electric Bike Report will help you to understand the meaning of common battery terms and their relation to the performance of the electric bikes they power.
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E-Bike Batteries Explained
Batteries are one of the core elements of electric bikes. They are needed to supply power to the motor, which in turn provides assistance to the rider, and reduces the amount of human effort needed to move the bike.
E-bike batteries come in various sizes, and can be mounted to the frame in different ways. Some are fully internal, and are sealed inside the bike’s frame. As such, they are not removable, except by using special methods and tools available to professional technicians. Others are removable for easier charging and replacement, whether mounted completely externally (outside the frame), partially recessed (sunken into the frame to some degree), or completely recessed (sunken entirely and nearly invisible on the bike).
Regardless of their type, all e-bike batteries are actually battery packs, and are made up of groups of cells, similar to the standard AA or AAA batteries used in everyday applications. The number of cells and the method used to cluster them together determines how quickly they can provide power and how long they can continue to supply it.
In contrast to standard AA or AAA batteries, however, those used in e-bikes are most commonly rechargeable lithium-ion batteries similar to those used inside smartphones and in conjunction with cordless power tools. Lithium-ion batteries are efficient and can be recharged hundreds or even thousands of times if cared for properly. The Light Electric Vehicle Association, or LEVA, has a great article that they allowed us to re-publish regarding proper battery care and safety to ensure maximum life span.
Fully integrated batteries such as the one on the Velotric Nomad 1 can match the bike’s color and disappear into the frame.
Electric Bike Battery Terms and Definitions
Before we dive deeper into the details, let’s consider a couple of examples of e-bike battery specifications in relation to how they usually appear:
36V, 14.4 Ah
Or
48V, 672 Wh
V = Volts and Ah = Amp-hours
Or
V = Volts and Wh = Watt-hours
Both examples convey two basic measurements, albeit a little differently. In both examples, we see volts first; this measurement relates to the availability of the electrical energy the battery can deliver. Next, either amp-hours or watt-hours are shown; these represent a battery’s capacity, or the amount of power it can store.
Let’s define these words (and a few helpful additional terms) a bit more clearly:
Current: the flow of electricity, or transfer of electrons, through a circuit.
Circuit: a closed system of wires and electrical components through which current can travel.
Volts (V): the amount of electrical force or pressure the battery can produce; the speed of the battery’s output of current. This is also sometimes referred to as the electromotive force, and is more specifically the speed at which electrons move through the system.
Note that this is a nominal rating that is used for classification purposes. In reality, a battery’s voltage varies based on the amount of power being drawn from it at a given moment, as well as the battery’s present level of charge. As current is drawn from the battery, its voltage decreases. This can be seen in an e-bike battery voltage chart.
Voltage is determined by the number of battery cells arranged “in series”.
Amps or amperes (A): a measurement of the strength of the battery’s output, or current. More specifically, the volume of electrons passing through the system. This is limited by the size of the wires making up the system. Larger wires allow more current, smaller wires allow less. Generally, systems with higher voltage should use smaller wires (that limit amperage) to prevent overheating.
Amps can also be thought of as the amount of energy being drawn from the battery by what it is powering, and can fluctuate from moment to moment. In the case of e-bike batteries and their motors, a greater number of amps are drawn as the motor works harder (i.e. going uphill or using only the throttle).
Amp-hours (Ah): a measurement of charge; the amount of energy that can be delivered through an electrical system over the course of an hour.
In the case of a 10 Ah battery, it can deliver 10 amps of power in one hour, or 1 amp of power for 10 hours, etc, depending on the needs of the component that is delivering power to.
Amp-hours are determined by the number of clusters of battery cells arranged “in parallel”.
Watts (W): a unit of power, determined by volts and amps; the amount of work that can be done by one amp of current delivered at 1 volt. The amount of work is determined by the rate at which the energy is used.
This measurement is generally applied only to an e-bike’s motor, but its battery must support the motor’s needs.
Watt-hours (Wh): another measurement of capacity. In this case, the amount of work that can be done, or the amount of power that is spent, over the course of an hour. This is a direct result of a battery’s voltage multiplied by its amp-hours.
As such, a 24V, 20 Ah battery and a 48V, 10 Ah battery might look different on paper, but they have about the same amount of energy. This makes watt-hours a more reliable indicator of capacity when comparing different batteries.
Controller: A device that limits the flow of electricity through a circuit, and prevents a battery from discharging its energy all at once. In terms of an electric bike, this is the “brain” that adjusts the pedal assist system, the amount of input the motor contributes, and the e-bike’s speed.
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The Electricity-As-Water Concept
All of the above terms describe the strength and total amount of energy in a system, but they can still be difficult to understand in a way that relates to normal, everyday life. For this reason, electrical concepts are commonly related to plumbing and the flow of water.
If we consider a large container filled with water, the container represents the battery itself, and the water inside the container represents current or electrical charge. The container can only hold so much water, so this is likened to a battery’s capacity.
Now, if the container is connected to a pipe or hose, that tube represents the wiring of the electrical system. Voltage can be thought of as the pressure forcing water through the tube. Amps can be thought of as the volume or amount of water flowing through the system, which can change based on the diameter of the pipe and how open the faucet is at the end.
With the faucet, or the flow as governed by the controller, fully open and the water flowing through a connected tube and into a bucket, the amount of water in the bucket after an hour can be compared to an amp-hour.
If the water is instead used to turn a small water wheel, a watt becomes the distance one measure (amp) of water can turn the wheel. And with these combined elements in place, we can determine the distance the wheel can be turned by a full container of water (watt-hours), and with regulation of the water’s flow through the faucet, how long it will take for the container to become empty.
Why Does All of This Matter?
In terms of e-bikes, the above terms affect primarily how fast they can accelerate, how much they cost, and most importantly for many potential buyers, how far they can travel (and for how long). To a lesser degree, other aspects of an e-bike are also influenced, including how confidently an e-bike can power up hills, and how much input its motor can provide.
E-Bike Battery Voltage = Speed and Acceleration
Most e-bikes use batteries that are either 36V or 48V, though some lower- and higher-voltage options exist. Lower-voltage options are usually not able to provide the level of power that most users desire, and in general, anything above 48V has the potential for safety risks from electrical shocks. 52V systems, while above that threshold, do have an advantage over 48V systems in that they are able to deliver a more consistent level of power over longer periods of time, but they are relatively uncommon.
When considering the aforementioned plumbing analogy in relation to the most common battery voltages, think of a 48V system as having greater “water pressure” over a 36V system. In practice, this means that a 48V battery will deliver power to an e-bike’s motor faster than a 36V system.
As such, the motor of a 48V system does not have to wait to access and use the power it receives, and will also get more power in the same amount of time. This means that – provided all other factors are the same – a motor receiving power from a higher voltage battery will accelerate quicker and be able to reach greater speeds than if it were fueled by a battery with lower voltage.
Rad Power Bikes’ RadCity 5 Plus uses a semi-integrated battery that trades visibility for easy separation from the frame.
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E-Bike Battery Capacity = Range
While there are many factors that influence an electric bike’s range, battery capacity is one of the primary influences and is generally a good indicator of potential distance. And as we have established, amp-hours and watt-hours are two different means of measuring an e-bike’s battery capacity.
If we consider e-bike battery specs in relation to cars, amp-hours are the equivalent of the gas tank. A greater number of amp-hours means more fuel in the proverbial tank, and therefore a higher watt-hour rating means an e-bike can travel a greater distance (or go faster for a shorter distance). Due to the previously mentioned relationship between volts, amp-hours, and watt-hours, if two batteries have the same amp-hour rating but different voltages, the higher voltage battery will have more watt-hours. For this reason, watt-hours are generally thought of as the most useful battery specification for the consumer.
This is where things start to get a little complicated. Since an e-bike’s battery interacts directly with its motor, the motor’s voltage, type, specs, and efficiency are also part of the range equation (as it turns out, this can be a very long equation).
All of the following factors (and many others) affect e-bike range beyond just its battery’s watt-hour rating:
- Motor voltage and watt output
- Rider and cargo weight
- Weather and wind
- Speed (and PAS setting)
- Terrain (road surface and hills)
- Number of stops/starts
- Amount and proper timing of rider input (pedaling)
- Tire size and tread type
The more extreme any of these factors are, the less range an e-bike battery will be able to provide, because the motor will need to do more work to compensate. As such, it will need to draw more energy from the battery to compensate, reducing the remaining pool of available charge.
E-Bike Battery Size and Cost
Generally speaking, an e-bike’s battery is its most expensive component. Again, considering how batteries are made up of clusters of individual cells, a greater number of cells equals a greater number of amp-hours and watt-hours, but also an increased cost.
For this reason, it is important to consider a practical range for your own personal needs, to ensure that you are not overpaying for a huge battery you don’t actually need. An extended range might look good on paper, but it might greatly exceed the distance you will regularly travel.
The external batteries on the Evelo Galaxy SL and Galaxy Lux are mounted unobtrusively beneath the cargo rack, and include integrated tail- and brake lights.
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E-Bike Battery Amp-hours and Motor Input
An e-bike’s battery voltage and watt-hours must match the needs of its motor. We have discussed how greater voltage in a motor/battery system equals more immediately available power and speed, but volts only go so far. A battery’s capacity also needs to support the nominal wattage of the motor it is paired with. Nominal means that the motor operates at that level MOST of the time, but can peak at higher levels when doing things that require it to work harder, such as traveling on an incline.
We’re crossing more into motor specifications here, but the two are related. A 250W motor will not provide as much power and assistance to an e-bike as a 750W motor. But a larger motor needs to draw more power from the battery – and therefore requires a battery with a greater number of amp-hours (and therefore, watt-hours) to operate effectively and provide a functional range.
Calculating E-Bike Range
Disregarding all factors aside from battery and motor specifications, it is possible to calculate a rough estimate of an e-bike’s range with some basic algebra. We have a separate, more detailed article on how to calculate the range of e-bikes, but a summary of the main points ties in nicely here as well.
A battery’s effectiveness in relation to its motor relates largely to its watt-hour capacity rating. As mentioned in the definitions section above, that can be calculated by multiplying volts and amp-hours as shown below:
Wh (watt-hours) = V (volts) x Ah (Amp-hours)
For example, let us assume that we are working with a 36V, 14 Ah battery. Using the equation above, we can determine that the watt-hour rating for this battery is 504 Wh. Let us also assume that this power source is compatible with three different e-bikes, each with commonly-sized rear-hub motors and controllers designed for a 36V system:
E-Bike 1 has a 250W motor, E-Bike 2 has a 500W motor, and E-Bike 3 has a 750W motor. We can divide a battery’s watt-hour rating by the motor’s watt requirement to find out how long the battery should power each e-bike:
E-Bike 1: 504 Wh / 250 W = 2.02 hours
E-Bike 2: 504 Wh / 500 W = 1.01 hours
E-Bike 3: 504 Wh / 750 W = 0.67 hours or about 40 minutes
Two caveats come into play here. First, as discussed previously, a motor’s wattage rating is nominal, and its actual output varies. The more its output exceeds the nominal rating, the less time it will take for the battery to be depleted.
Secondly, we established that these were rear-hub motors, which tend to be less efficient than mid-drive motors (one that is mounted at the bottom bracket). Mid-drives have a direct connection to the pedal cranks, and subsequently rely much more on rider input, which reduces the amount of work the motor itself has to do, and extends battery life. For this reason, a smaller 250W mid-drive motor can have the efficiency and range of a larger 500W rear-hub motor. Factoring in sub-types of hub motors can affect things further, but for this article, we’ll keep things as simple as possible.
For most folks, a quantity of time is not quite as useful as a unit of distance, so with some additional math, we can calculate a rough idea of an e-bike’s minimum mileage with one more step. Yes, this complicates things further, but the result is ultimately more relevant.
Ideally, you need to know your average travel speed (or velocity) on an e-bike, which can be figured out over time using a fitness tracker app such as Strava, but if you don’t already have that we can estimate roughly 16 mph.
d (distance in miles) = d (time in hours) x v (velocity in mph)
So if we’re considering the same 36V, 14 Wh battery and the same three e-bikes with different motor wattages from before:
E-Bike 1: 2.02 hours x 16 mph = 32.32 miles
E-Bike 2: 1.01 hours x 16 mph = 16.16 miles
E-Bike 3: 0.67 hours x 16 mph = 10.72 miles
Through these calculations, we can see that a motor paired with a battery that has watt-hours exceeding its nominal wattage will function for significantly more mileage than one with watt-hours under its nominal wattage. For this reason, we generally recommend at least a 1-to-1 ratio between a motor’s nominal wattage output and a battery’s watt-hour rating, i.e. a 500W motor and at least a 500 Wh battery.
E-Bike Battery Voltage and Amps = Torque and Uphill Capability
An e-bike’s ability to power up steep inclines is helped by its rider and gearing, but is determined also by torque, or a measurement of rotational power. This dips more into motor, controller, and wiring territory, and therefore more into the engineering aspect of an e-bike’s electrical system, but an increase in watts equals an increase in torque (since watts equal work that can be done). Since watts are directly proportional to volts and amps, increasing either will effectively also increase torque.
For consumers, motor specs are much more relevant to understanding uphill power than battery specs. Every e-bike motor has a torque rating in Newton-meters (Nm), which is the most important number when considering an e-bike’s hill climbing capability. A higher Newton-meter rating equates to better uphill performance.
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Understanding E-Bike Batteries
While the topic of batteries and electrical systems is certainly complicated – this article has only scratched the surface, really – we hope that you feel better able to understand e-bike battery specifications with this information.
It can be easy to ignore the meaning of the values included in the specs of an e-bike battery and default to the standard belief that bigger equals better. When you start to consider how larger and smaller battery-related numbers relate to the practical applications of an e-bike, you can better understand how these measurements meet your own needs.
We hope you feel like you’re a bit better armed with knowledge now as you search for the right e-bike for you, and if you need a little more help in that regard, you can always check out our e-bike buyer’s guide for more basics on e-bikes batteries, motors, and more.
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Nice explanation there Pete of the electrical theories behind the use of a electric bike
Thanks Ken!
My ebike came with 36v 11ah battery and manual says 36v 10ah recommend. I want to upgrade to 13ah . And the controller overflow current protection is 12ah+1. Does this mean it’s limited to 12ah+1 our it can increase no more then 12+1ah. I’d like to use a 13ah 36v battery.
Pete when they say 16s22p referring to a battery what does that mean?
16 batteries in series and 22 batteries in parallel.
My eBike is 48 volts and has 21 amp hour battery, its motor is 750 watts. I get twice the distance at ten mph as compared to 30 mph at top speed. The speed determines the wattage draw by the motor and has the biggest effect on distance. I see the word “range” used allot and was educated to believe range is the point that one can safely return home, range is half the total capable distance.
A while back, I ran my 18v weed whacker using an old 36v ebike battery by running it threw a voltage controller. I set the controller to 50% (or up to 60% if I want to overclock it) and can mow down weeds all day. I got to wondering if I could do the same to my ebike. If I bought a 72v 20ah battery and stepped it down to 36v, would I get twice the range/capacity (essentially making it a 36v 40ah battery) since I’m drawing half the current?
Your explanation on electrical terminology is very good, & appreciated. My wife & of 43 yrs are retired recently, & if we can afford it we would like to get one of the ‘Pegego’ Electric Tandem bikes this summer. Have been catching bits of news here & there on types of batteries that may be available. The voltage would be in the 48-volt arena, and will need one that will take us as far & long as possible. We live in an area that has mostly flat roads & small knolls and rises. No big hills. Lithium-ion/phosphate. Lithium-manganese. And latest one is Hyrogen/extended range battery. Would the latter one be the best for us? It seems to be the latest hi-tech option & we need to know how expensive & dependable as well as safe it would be for us. The Dutchman and the Mrs.
Hello Dutchman! Yes I think the new hydrogen system would give you a lot of range but I am not sure when this system will be available. I will check with Pedego to see if they have an estimate on that.
The Pedego Tandem is in stock and selling out fast. It has the same proplusion system as the Pedego Interceptor – 48 Volt Motor, Battery, Controller and Throttle. For extended range, the best solutions are 1. Carry and extra battery and/or 2. Carry a charger with you. The 48 volt LifePo4 battery is 10 Ah and should take you 20-30 miles per charge with minimal pedaling. With 2 batteries, you can go twice as far. Call us anytime at (800) 646-8604.
Hello Dutchman! Yes I think the new hydrogen system would give you a lot of range but I am not sure when this system will be available. I will check with Pedego to see if they have an estimate on that.
thank you.. nice explaination… now another question. i have an e bike and love it… i also have a scooter/bike and i need new batteries. 4 12v 12amp. and i am having a hard time finding them here in san diego. everyone wants me to bring in the batteries i have. why cant they just tell me if they have 12v 12a batteries. then i have to connect them. is there one battery that will take the place of 4????
how do i get more ebike basics…..ron
I just bought a new 48 volt, 20 amp hour LiPo4 battery from China for my bike. I charged it with the provided charger. After charging, it is up to 60 volts. Is this how much it should have?
Thanks,
Garen
Hi Garen, Normally a 48 volt pack would be in the 52 volt range when fully charged. That pack does seem to be a bit high. Check with the store or manufacturer who you bought it from to see if they think that is strange.
Exact Pete, we at the workshop the 48V batteries when fully charged give between 52 and 54 V.
Above it is surprising, the BMS does not work well, danger !
Thanks for spending the time to educate. I own a GT004 green power bike that I bought thru Craiggs List. The guy does not return my calls. I have been trying to find a maintenance manual to service it but have not had any luck online. The closest service area is too far for me and I call them but they also are not returning my calls. their number is 718 200-6967. Anyway I hope my info facilitates someone. I know that they are in Flushing, ny which is in the borough of Queens. I got through one time but haven’t been able to since. I need to service my brakes. If anybody has some ideas or info please share it with me/us. Thanks again for this blog. Great stuff!
Are your brakes not standard bicycle brakes? May I suggest you watch Park Tool’s YouTube channel and search for brake adjustment.
This is really over simplistic. One thing that I think you should have talked about is that the higher the voltage is,the more cells you need and the easier it crosses your skin. The more cells you have, the more points of failure you have. Ideally, you want 4 separate cells for a 48V bike that are not packaged in a “battery” (A battery is a group of cells). What can happen in a sealed “battery” is one of the cells can become discharged and then have their polarity reversed causing that particular cell vent and to become permanently damaged it’s capacity permanently diminished, which causes the problem to happen more frequently. By have 4 separate 12v cells, they can all be charged independently and replaced on an individual basis based on the condition of the cell via the smart charger. You can also use the charger to make sure all 4 cells have the same charge (if one is diminished) which will keep that bad cell from venting again until you can get a replacement. Also, having higher torque at the low end (with higher voltage) causes much more heat in the motor at the high end. Higher voltage does reduce the thickness of the wiring needed both on the bike frame, controller and the windings in the motor, but like I said, these thinner wires will heat up faster when going very fast or climbing a hill.
Batteries are incredibly complex and there are entire books about batteries. The same battery can go 20 miles one day, 18 the next and 22 the day after that.
Hi Chris, Thanks for the detailed info. And yes batteries are very complex. My goal with this post was to convey the basics of batteries for people who are new to e-bikes.
No thanks, Chris. If your 4 cells give (nominal, not actual) 48V, then you’re using lead-acids and clearly off the 21st-century standards. Not even NiMHs even. Furthermore, multi-cell strings push the problem back to the BMS computer, an entirely solvable problem. Cell balancing- bottom AND top- should be standard in any BMS worth buying today.
I think we have a failure to communicate here.
eBike battery packs use small Lithium cells, typically called “18650,” which are slightly larger than AA cells in size. Their voltage output depends on their state of charge but the output is nominally 3.7v. A typical 18650 cell can deliver about 2.5 Amps of current for about 1 hour, or 2.5Ah (2.5 x 1).
Since one cell is good for 3.7v, battery makers line up 13 of them, tied in series, giving a nominal voltage of 3.7 x 13 = 48v. Then, to get more current capacity they tie up 4 banks of such cells, so the current capacity is 2.5A x 4 = 10 Amps of current. And most cells can reliably deliver about twice their rated capacity, so a typical eBike battery can deliver about 20 Amps for short periods.
Now the TOTAL capacity of a finished battery pack is measured in “Watts.” Since watts = voltage x current, our finished assembly is rated at 48v x 10a = 480 Wh. This means it can deliver 480 watts for one hour, or 240 watts for two hours, and so forth. The peak current output is generally 20 amps, so full-throttle operation delivers 48v x 20a = 960 watts, or a bit over one horsepower. A typical hub motor may only be rated at “500 watts,” but it can easily absorb 960 watts for a short period of time.
By the way, it’s called an “18650” cell because it measures 18mm in diameter and 65mm in length.
Very good details Riredale, I add a fairly simple little comment for buyers new to E-Bike. We in France use the following technical rule: 1 Watt/hour is worth 4 kilometers in normal use on flat ground. So for a 48V-14Ah battery or 672Wh you can estimate a range of approximately 672:4 = 168 kilometers on exclusively flat terrain with low assistance. I personally am on a winter cycling course in Spain with experienced couriers, on my Scott 48V/14.5Ah, I do 115 km but at high speed, and lots of big climbs.
sorry for my English and my conjugation mistakes, long live cycling and be careful on the roads !
I have a 48v 20amp hour LiPo4 on my bike that I’ve rode about 15-30 miles a day for about 45 days. The farthest I’ve ridden it on a charge was 44 miles before it cut off. I am very happy with it. It has always charged up to 60 volts and then went down a little after about one mile of riding due to surface charge. However, when I took it off the charger today so I could go for my ride, it had 67 volts. After I rode it for 15 miles, it was finally down to 53 volts which is where it is usually at after only about 5 miles. Can someone explain to me why it is now charging up to 67 volts?
I have an update to my earlier post about my 48v 20 amp hour LiPo4 charging up to 67 volts. The next time I charged it, it charged to 60 volts just like it always has. I rode it 20 miles this time which makes 35 miles total today.
Hi Garen,
That does seem a bit high for a 48 volt battery. I would recommend that you post your question in the Endless Sphere forum:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=21
There are a lot of technical e-bikers in that forum that may be able to help you out.
Hello all.!!!
I am looking for a Big, Stout Electric Mountain Bike that can handle me. The one I just bought for 375$(cheap I know.lol) I BROKE!! I am 6ft 5inches and 310lbs. I need one of these as I have an injury from years ago that stops me from Hiking like I like to do. I am looking at the Busettii 60 Vortex. Can anyone out there tell me about the Vortex, the Busettii Company, if they are a Good, reputable Company and or where to look for what I need. Thanks so much!!
dAN.
Hi Dan,
Here is a review of the Bussetti Big 50 bike. Make sure you read all of the reader comments at the bottom of the review:
https://electricbikereport.com/electric-bike-review-busettii-big-50-part-1/
https://electricbikereport.com/electric-bike-review-busettii-big-50-part-2/
We need battery charger LP 4830 4 pk –48 v- 3a. 3 prong ,any idea where we can get this. Thanx
hi, are there any open source Battery Management Systems that are suitable for users to alter the performance etc of an e bike. that work with all providers systems?
Hi Paul,
Not that I’m aware of but I will let you know if I hear of anything.
I have 2 mini electric bikes one of which appears to have a battery which will not charge I have heard it may be asleep. It is 24v 6ah and I can’t seem to find a replacement. Is it ok to use a li-ion battery of different ah value. Pretty sure motor is 230W. Thanks for any help.
wow i love this site
i live in hilly NE PA, w/a heart condition and bad feet, and back so i bot a heavy recombant but am limited to a flat rd along a river, I also weigh 270 lbs and need to loose wt, so i’d like to expand my area and distance of riding. to do this i have to conquer many hills. hence i see a front wheel kit w/48v-1000w 470rpm kit requireing a LI, /lead acid/ or NIMH batterynominal capacity not less than 17Ah to be compaatible w/kit
Is this available, safe, and legal,…. i’d like to go far..thanks, my hart depends on it!! where can i get battery.
This is very informational. Thanks for sharing your informative article with us. Keep up the fantastic work.
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I have a 750 to 1000 watt hub motor
,48 volt 15amp battery.
The current controller is 26 amp.
Can I replace controller to a 1000 watt 38 amp.
My old controller went bad.
I was wondering if I could get an answer here since I haven’t been able to find an answer anywhere else I have a kit which has a controller that is a thousand Watts 60 volts and goes up to 32 amps I have a battery that’s 48 volts a thousand watts and a motor that’s 48 volts a thousand Watts and I was wondering if this controller can work and all the way if anybody can answer this question I would appreciate it very much thank you
I was wondering if I could get an answer here since I haven’t been able to find an answer anywhere else I have a kit which has a controller that is a thousand Watts 60 volts and goes up to 32 amps I have a battery that’s 48 volts a thousand watts and a motor that’s 48 volts a thousand Watts and I was wondering if this controller can work with my battery and hub motor if anybody can answer this question I would appreciate it very much thank you
Well done but I do not complete agree with “ A higher Newton-meter rating equates to better uphill performance”. The torque can be specified to 1000 Nm and still the bike is not moving and the manufacturer do not specify when the max torque is delivered. It is the power in W that is needing to move the bike 😉.
That’s true, it is absolutely a combination of those factors! Good point of clarification.
I bought a 48 volt kit 1000 Watts rear hub with one battery and it was pretty good I would average about 36-40kmh speed for about 40km distance. But then I upgraded to a motor hub with a built-in controller, so one less thing to strap on the bike…. However, this one is 2000 watts. I gained about 8-10 km speed but because of the 2000watt motor the battery life was much shorter then the 1000w. So for the small amount of speed I wouldn’t recommend doing what I did. But I ended up buying another battery and switching to 52 volt so now I get about the same distance maybe more.it says 80 km but I don’t think it’s that much …maybe with just pedal assist on three with no throttle. But definitely need that second battery for the 2000w. I probably would have switched back to the 1000w if it had the controller built into the hub as well but it wasn’t an option. The motor will take anything from 36 volt to 92volt. Would love to switch to 72 volt but pretty expensive upgrade. Plus my bike is just a regular mountain bike Cannondale ryze 4 and the potholes in my city on the roads are terrible so anything faster than 50 km an hour is probably not a good idea on this bike lol. But still the best thing I ever purchased and much cheaper than a pre-made e-bike that is limited to low speed and looks lame.
I am looking to power my awning with a DC tubular electric motor. It is a 12V, 66W,5.5 amp motor. It turns at 8 rpm and accordingly develops 36 Nm of torque.
What would be the likely specs for a lithium ion batter pack to power such a set up.
It’s important for voltage to be the same, so you’d likely want to look at a 12V battery – but otherwise, I’d recommend talking to an awning specialist!