Electric Bike Modes: Throttle vs Pedal Assist (Pedelec)
Understanding E-Bike Propulsion Methods and Which is Right for You
Depending on their designation, e-bikes and their motors work in two ways: they can either make your level of pedaling effort easier, or completely take over and simply carry you along for the ride.
When you’re considering which type of e-bike to purchase, it’s important to think about which of these methods the bike offers, the environment(s) you’ll be riding in, and your own abilities and preferences. In this article, the writers here at Electric Bike Report will help you to understand the pros and cons of throttle vs pedal assist electric bikes, and help you to determine which is best for you!
Defining E-Bike Throttle and Pedal Assist Terms
Before we get into the differences between throttle and pedal assist and how they relate to you, let’s define those terms more clearly:
- Throttle: a handlebar-mounted device that can engage (and sometimes adjust) power output from the bike’s motor. Electric bikes with throttles can be completely self-propelled, since throttles tell their motors to dispense power without the need for any pedal motion or input from the rider.
- Pedal Assist: the standard method of operation for e-bikes. As the term suggests, this method of motor engagement requires the bike’s rider to move the pedals, though depending on the bike’s gearing, type of motor, and type of sensor, the rider may or may not need to actually be engaged with the drivetrain.
- Pedelec: This term is a synonym for pedal assist, and is an abbreviation derived from the words “pedal electric cycle.”
It should be noted that, in order to be classified as electric bicycles, all e-bikes must have operable pedals. As such, most e-bikes function through pedal assist, with some having additional throttles – though it is still possible to have a throttle-controlled motor mounted to an otherwise non-electric bicycle with a standard drivetrain.
Many e-bikes, like the Aventon Aventure 2, offer both throttle and pedal assistance for a range of applications in different environments.
E-bike Class System
At least in the US, e-bikes are separated into three classes or categories. This class system plays a significant role in regulating their legal use in specific areas or on specific paths. Their placement within this system is determined by the methods through which they employ their motors, as well as their maximum motor-assisted speeds.
This system, and much of the legislation related to it, exists largely thanks to the incredible, thoughtful, and intelligent folks at People for Bikes. Their work has helped to create a structure for the governance, safety, and consistency of e-bikes, in addition to promoting them as beneficial to the well-being of all. If you can’t tell, we’re big fans!
Let’s take a look at how throttle vs pedal assist ties into this 3-class system.
Class 1
A Class 1 e-bike has a motor that provides assistance only when its rider is pedaling, and is limited to motor-assisted speeds of 20 miles per hour. These e-bikes are capable of going faster than 20 mph, but only on human power beyond that point. These e-bikes do NOT have throttles.
Class 2
Class 2 e-bikes ARE equipped with throttles, and do not require human input to be propelled (though most do also offer pedal assistance). E-bikes in this category are still limited to motor-assisted speeds of 20 miles per hour.
Class 3
Sometimes known as S-Pedelecs or Speed Pedelecs (primarily in Europe), Class 3 e-bikes offer pedal assistance up to a maximum of 28 miles per hour. Additionally, Class 3 e-bikes are required to be equipped with a speedometer. Like Class 1 e-bikes, these can still be pedaled faster than their motor-assisted speeds, but only with human power.
Class 3 e-bikes can ALSO be categorized as Class 2 e-bikes if they feature a throttle that is limited to 20 miles per hour.
Thumb-operated throttle levers, such as this one on the Evelo Omega, are typically the most commonly-used variety.
Unclassified
Any e-bike that differs from the descriptions above falls into the “Unclassified” category. This could be for a number of reasons, such as including a throttle that reaches speeds above 20 miles per hour, or being equipped with a motor with nominal output beyond 750 Watts.
While laws and regulations still vary widely, e-bikes within this category are often only legal off-road or on private property without a license and registration.
Throttle Specifics, Pros, and Cons
As we established, an e-bike throttle is a control mounted on the handlebars that can control the motor. Throttles come in a variety of shapes and sizes, with differing degrees of functionality between them.
Most often, electric bike throttles come in two styles: either twist throttles or throttle levers. Twist throttles usually take up a portion of one of the handlebar grips, and are activated by rotating that portion (usually backward, for safety). Alternatively, throttle levers are a separate unit typically mounted next to one of the grips, and operated by thumb. We have occasionally seen button-style throttles as well, though these are less common.
E-bike throttles can apply their power in a couple of different ways. So-called “modular” throttles are adjustable, and apply more power and speed as they are twisted further, or their levers are depressed more. Others, usually the boost-button-style (but sometimes twist or lever-operated), function more like an on/off switch and apply power in an all-or-nothing fashion.
Additionally, throttles can sometimes be tied in with a bike’s electronic pedal assist system – we’ll cover more about that shortly – to set maximum throttle speeds below 20 miles per hour, if desired. This is a feature that we generally like to see, since keeping a twist throttle turned halfway or a throttle lever partially pushed down for a long period of time can be challenging.
Throttles are typically seen on bikes with rear-hub motors, though they do occasionally appear alongside mid-drives.
Some electric bike throttles come in the form of a twist throttle, like this one on the Lectric XPremium.
- Since throttle engagement does not require pedaling, it places no strain on the knees and thighs. This makes electric bikes with throttles great for older folks or anyone with medical conditions that affect pedaling ability.
- For cyclists who frequently find themselves in high-traffic environments, throttles can allow for swift startups that bring the bike up to speed quickly. This means keeping up with traffic more easily, and passing more safely through intersections.
- If used on a Class 2 or 3 e-bike, throttle use allows riders to work less when encountering hills or headwinds, or to simply take a rest when needed.
- Because the motor is the only thing powering the bike when the throttle is engaged, prolonged use can drain the battery much faster than when using pedal assist.
- With throttles that are not tied into the bike’s pedal assist system, their speed may be difficult to keep consistent over extended periods of time.
- When used with rear hub motors, throttles have fixed gearing that cannot be adjusted to suit the intensity of the rider’s environment.
Pedal Assist
Whether using an e-bike with a mid-drive motor or a hub motor, the bike’s pedal assist system (or PAS) will govern the amount of assistance the motor provides when pedaling. Generally speaking, this allows for an efficient system that divides the amount of work required to move the bike between the motor and the rider.
Pedal assist electric bikes typically offer multiple stages of assistance; most commonly between 3 and 5. The lowest settings are usually the most efficient and require less power from the battery, but this means that more human power is required to move the bike. Conversely, high PAS settings draw more power from the battery, but also require less pedal power as the motor dispenses a greater amount of assistance.
Depending on the size of the motor, the type of motor, and the PAS setting, using pedal assistance extends the limits of what a person can do on a bike. This can be as little as an additional 15-20% of what a rider is capable of, or it can skyrocket up to beyond 300%. This is what makes e-bikes so much fun!
Class 1 pedal assist electric bikes like the FLX Babymaker II do not include a throttle, and many are able to maintain a traditional non-electric bike feel.
Let’s quickly examine the types of motors, the different sensors they use to know how and when to provide pedal assistance, and how these things impact a bike’s feel.
Motor Types
Hub Motors
As their name suggests, these are motors mounted in the center of either the front or rear wheel. Rear-hub motors are most common, and typically produce a feeling of being pushed from behind, though the intensity of this feeling differs depending on the motor’s size / power level. Due to their positioning, the amount of rider input that is needed with hub motors varies greatly, though this is related to the type of sensor they use – we’ll go over that soon. For those who want to learn more, check out our complete guide to hub motor brands.
Mid-Drive Motors
Mid-drives are placed within a bike’s bottom bracket, and as such are tied directly in with its drivetrain through the cranks. These types of motors typically feature a much more natural ride feel much closer to that of a non-electric bike. They also tend to require a greater degree of rider input, which makes them typically more efficient than hub motors. Again, this depends on many factors, including their sensors. We go into more detail about this type of motor in our complete guide to e-bike mid-drive motors.
Sensor types
Cadence
Cadence sensors, which are mostly found on hub motors, typically use a series of magnets or an optical system to detect pedal motion, and direct the motor to dispense power in tandem with the speed of crank rotation (rotations per minute, or RPMs). The PAS settings on a system with cadence sensors commonly set a “top speed” within each level that can be maintained with or without engagement with the drivetrain. As long as the pedals move, the motor supplies power.
Mid-drive motors with torque sensors, such as this one on the Quietkat Rubicon, commonly offer a much more natural and responsive pedal assist feel than a hub motor with a cadence sensor.
Torque
On the opposite end of the spectrum are torque sensors, which detect how much pressure the rider is applying to the bike’s pedals – essentially, how hard they are working – and tell the motor to supply power to compensate. In these cases, a bike’s PAS settings dictate how much power is dispensed with each pedal stroke. This results in a more natural and responsive pedal assist feel that pairs nicely with the sensation provided by a mid-drive motor, so it is no surprise that torque sensors are commonly used with motors of this type. That said, the technology is becoming more common on hub motors.
- On e-bikes with motors that have well-tuned sensors, using pedal assist feels intuitive and nearly identical to riding a non-electric bike. This makes riding an e-bike an easy and fun skill to learn!
- Using pedal assistance can provide a great workout and all of the health benefits that come with it!
- When compared to throttle use, pedal assist is typically more efficient, meaning that it requires less battery power and can allow a bike to travel farther.
- Considering that most e-bikes have more than a single speed, pedal assist can take advantage of both a bike’s gearing and PAS to adapt its feel to its environment.
- Using only pedal assist when starting can be much slower than throttle use, making city rides a bit more difficult.
- Depending on the motor and the type of sensor it uses, the bike’s motor responsiveness can vary greatly.
- Managing a bike’s gearing and PAS setting can take some effort and practice to master.
Where to Go Next
We hope that you have found this article helpful! When you’re considering the differences between a pedal assist electric bike and an electric bike with a throttle, you’re really only scratching the surface of what makes them unique.
If you’re interested in learning more, we recommend taking a look at our Buyer’s Guide to Electric Bikes and learning about these mistakes to avoid when shopping for electric bikes.
Happy researching and riding!
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I’m a fan of pedal assist with a torque sensor (on high). It definitely gives the “super man” feel and allows for a great commute to work! I also like eBikes that allow for throttle override of the pedal assist while in pedal assist mode. Sometimes that extra boost up a hill is really helpful without having to switch modes to get it.
Thanks for all the great articles Pete!
Cheers,
– Adam
Hi Adam, I just bought a cyclamatic foldaway. It has pedal assist and a thrrottle. I haven’t used the throttle yet and there is no info about it in the little handbook that came with the bike. Should I be in pedal assist when I try it, do you think? There is a red button that I push to get into pedal assist. When I first try it, should I be going uphill? Any suggestions?
Your discussion of throttle vs pedal assist has omitted a very important benefit of a throttle to supplement pedal assist. I’m 82 with sketchy knees/legs, and I wish I had a throttle just to get underway on uphills, tight conditions, rough single track, etc. A throttle should not disqualify a bike from Class 1, if it was designed to time out after 10 seconds, of disengage above 4-5 mph
Im looking for a simple front wheel e bike kit with pedal assist torque mode. which kit do you recommend?
I have ridden 10+ gear bikes since 1957. I have had two Trek pedelec bikes for the last three years, the xm700x and now a police ebike. I don’t think the throttle ebikes should qualify as bicycles, they are motor bikes. There could be some exceptions for the handicapped. I enjoy the 50 gears. 10 manual plus 4 levels of assist., but you have to pedal to go. At almost 80 it allows me to get a good workout without too much stress with my new valve job. My cardiologist want me to keep my heart rate below 140, all I need to do is increase the assist level. Hopefully I’ll be able to ride a few more years!
Don’t give up so soon have been riding for 45 years now, 71 in this next August, both knees replaced last year., Put a couple short 45 mm cranks on my recumbent and away I go. 1000 watt 56 volt hub motor. Working towards getting back on my trek someday soon.
I am heading that way but before the next valve job Go GUNDRY. CHANGE THE FUEL.
Qualified for the French nationals in ’57 and have a pig heart valve. Now ride an e-assist Mahle-powered road bike and love it. Really need the boost for the hills while no assist needed on flatland. Keeps me going as hit 80 this year. Thanks for great summary of these bike types. Pete
Hi Adam.
I have question about my brand new Himo Z20 bike.
The pedal assist is only activating in the first mode (out of 3) Its called the eco mode. Nothing is happening with the 2 other modes. Medium and high.
It has a throttle for pure electric mode and that is working fine.
Im not sure if i have to use the throttle at the same time as i am pedalling for it to work, or could it be that the pedal assist system is broken somehow?
Hope you can give me some advise. Thanks, Thomas.
I am a fan of as little components as possible. The less parts and pieces, the less chance of failure. That’s just my opinion. I do not offer pedal sensor components on my DIY kits but I am open to learning what people think / want.
I’ve had an ebike kit on my old mountain bike for over five years. It is frontwheeldrive, with a thumb throttle and regeneration button for downhill recharge. I’ve ridden pedelecs and, on the whole, don’t like them. find it annoying to have to adjust power assist, and it can be quite alarming/dangerous if on high assist when you pedal off, and you get too great a boost. The thumb throttle is sensitive, easy to adapt to all conditions, works in well with how hard you want to pedal(I never ride mine without pedaling) and i swear by the regen button for both braking and battery recharge. you can overcome the aching thumb/wrist syndrome on a longer ride by setting the thumb throttle on right hand handlebar so your thumb naturally pushes it away from you. And, it’s simple.
I had thumb throttle, but found it awkward, changed it to twist? How can l fit regenerating mode
I have a pedal assist Giant and I really wish I would have done more research before I bought it because I would love to have something that has a throttle on it as well what type of bicycle do you have
I have a ebike conversion kit with a front hub motor and throttle speed control and pedal assist. How can I eliminate the speed limitations?
I like my Pedego Interceptor step through with throttle capabilities.
Both my wife and I are in our 60’s ,work out and swim several times a week and at least 3 rides a week on our Pedego’s .
Both of us have knee replacements and I a fused back.
This type of bike suits us especially on hills ,headwinds or when tired to know we have some power back up on our 20-30 mile Greenways in Raleigh .
We pedal as much as we can for cardio exercise and just plain fun in the fresh air!
Enjoy your site Pete.
Len and Sharron in Raleigh NC
My ebike allows for both the throttle and pedal assist to work together. I really like it because I can use the throttle while going through corners where I might ground my pedal. I also use it when negotiating tight places. The pedal assist works great on long hauls and not having to keep your hand on the throttle. If I had to choose one it would be the throttle because I can control the exact amount of assist at any given moment.
I agree with all your points. My Juiced Fat ebike has torque sensing which I use with minimal assist most of the time. But when I get into traffic or come to a particularly steep hill I put the thumb throttle on full to accelerate up to about 25mph. I think I’d prefer to have a twist throttle for the better variable control though.
Pedelecs are pointless. Most people who buy electric bikes want to cruise on electric and pedal just a little. Plus you can keep up with traffic better with throttle and more speed. Its actually dafer for you. Some pedelecs you never know when the darn motor will kick in. The pedelec sensor fails often. Its a nightmare for ebike companies to fix!
I use my pedelec mode all the time to save on battery charge. The throttle is good for starting off then I switch to pedelec assist level 3. Also my hand gets sore holding the throttle on all the time. I prefer full throttles to half throttles, but my bike only comes with half throttle. A problem with my pedelec mode is the motor stays on for 2 to 3 seconds after I stop pedaling. I would be better if it cut off soon as I stop pedaling.
If you pedal very slowly but have the pedal assist at the highest will the bike go faster? I don’t quite understand this pedal assist issue. If you travel 10 miles the wheels and pedals both revolve a certain number of times no matter the assist. It seems as though adding a pedal assist would be similar to either having a very low gear or a very high gear without the need to push as hard. I must have something wrong here. Is there a simpler explanation regarding pedal assist bikes?
I have a pedelec and love it. I have three bikes, and I want to pedal, but when I have a meeting at night that is 7 miles away, I take the e-bike. It is enough of a boost to keep me from wanting to take the car at the end of a long day. It’s fun. Also, the laws on e-bikes continue to change, but it looks like the pedelecs will be classified as bikes, whereas bikes with throttles or self-propelled speeds of more than 20 mph are starting to become classified as “motor” vehicles and requiring registration in some states.
What about Pennsylvania does it have to have regirstrat ion in that state if the ebike goes 20 mph?
Rob P quite correctly writes..
“Some pedelecs you never know when the darn motor will kick in”
I agree 100% Rob. I’m in the UK and it is becoming more and more difficult to buy a new E-bike with ‘Twist and Go’ or ‘Thumb Twist’ throttles.
Most E-bike retailers say the reason is that ‘Twist and Go’ throttles are illegal in the UK. They are so wrong: as long as the ‘Twist and Go’ throttle cannot exceed 4 mph then it is perfectly legal in the UK.
Are ‘Twist and Go throttles legal in the USA? Or do they differ depending on the State?
I ride my pedelec a lot and find it very reliable. I’ve met a lot of ebike users around Tucson and most with pedelec bikes. I see throttle user riding around RV parks. In about 4,000 miles of riding paved bike trails and park roads I have seen only a few throttle users, and they appeared to need them either due to age, + 80’s or physical disabilities. I ride my pedelec for aerobics & to ease high winds and hills. At 77 with a new heart valve it keeps me going with over 65 years of bike riding..
Re: Throttles
I like it for stop signs and busy intersections…Otherwise ….As little assist as is necessary. The throttle allows you to be quickly off the stop and clear intersections as quick and safely as possible. The less time taken to get through the better. Also a lot easier on the old knees.
Absolutely!! I would never spend thousands on an ebike without a throttle. When you need to get started quickly from a dead stop, no need to get in the right gear and/or stand up on the peddles.
Re throttles: Throttles may be advantageous to new or inexperienced tiders. As an experienced mountain bike trail rider I turned in my one e-MTB for a no throttle e-fat mtb. I was 72 year old with some knee & achiles problems. Using a throttle on technical uphills made me feel like I was riding a motercycle. I did not need to use my gears. I could spin my tires more easily and contribute to trail destruction.
Please determine what you will use your ebike for. Go off road only with peddle assist and learn off track skills wth bike gears. Do not buy a motorcycle that looks like a bike. If you are mobility challenged, that is a whole other story.
The Eurpopeans have it right. Pedelecs are the way to go. I have a Kalkoff. I find it so effortless to pedal that I only need to use the Eco assist level. The only time I use the standard or high assist levels are when climbing 8-10 degree hills. Because pedaling with assist is so effortless, having a throttle is redundant.
I bought a torque sensing pedelec just over a year ago and I find this system very intuitive. The harder you pedal the more (and proportional) assist you get. Good for accelerating away in traffic and you don’t have to do anything other than pedal. It is analogous to the power steering on a car but in this case the assist power is on the pedals.
I have now done 2700 miles of leisure cycling with a range of up to 40 Miles. Usually I leave the assist control in ECO mode (50% extra torque)for most of the ride but as I live on top of a hill I usually finish the ride in MED (100% extra torque) or HI (150% extra torque). Think of a this type of pedelec as having a torque motor which applies an extra torque that is a multiplier of the torque you are applying to the chain. Mine is coupled to a Shamano Nexus 7 seven speed hub, and is great for always being in the right gear by being able to change gear when stationary.
As a power electronics engineer I had intended designing and developing a torque assist bike so was surprised to find that a few manufacturers brought them out in Europe recently. I bought a Raleigh Vélo Cité with a 36V 10Ahr lithium battery. I would never use a throttle or cadence type unless I was infirm and I am sure that torque sensing pedelecs will become the norm as prices fall.
Hi I was thinking of buying an electric bike as I live where it is extremely hilly. Do you if a pedal assist electric bikes will get me up the hills with out killing myself. Bright now I have an old fashion SCHWINN with no gears and my knees are killing me. What kind of bike do you have and is it good/bad for someone who can’t handle hills but wants to still enjoy a bike ride not a moped experience. Also is it good for short people
Hello,
would you please recommend me a good pedelec conversion kit with torque sensor and, maybe, cadence sensor as well?
Thanks from PERU.
I am in the process of opening a E Bike outfitting business,I have been experimenting with various motor drive systems, hub direct drive motors, hub gear drive, and at last a mid hub drive. I’ m 68years old my first attempt is 1000 w 48 v 15 ah it’s on a Schwinn MTB I’ve put about 750 miles since May of this year , I ‘d like to try a good peddle assist system as mine dose not work properly and the twist throttle has looped me a couple of times, I use the lowest assist level option, on a recent ride I was able to squeeze 62.5 miles out of full charge with the big hub drive, by just nearly cracking the throttle
The Dirty One
Can l fine tune my twist throttle
David
Is there any bike motor out there that has a reverse gear on its selector ?
I like having both options. The throttle is great for getting a quick burst of speed, like when going through an intersection. It is also good when you are riding in a situation that requires you to be able to vary your speed quickly. I like the pedal-assist when riding on open stretches of road. On my Pedego Interceptor I can change the pedal-assist mode very easily so if I need to drop down from Super Girl #5 to Modest Mouse #2 I can do that quickly.
I’ve had 3 throttle bikes and have been riding a pedelec for 2 weeks now, and so far, I liked the throttle. I’m basically a cyclist who likes to keep the pace up going up hills, so I used to ride unassisted a lot of the time, but that’s not really possible with the pedelec. It would be better if it had a 0 setting so you could still use the throttle override, but the only option is to switch the whole thing off. And I agree with Dan, it’s just another thing to go wrong, cost money and add weight. I’ll bet in my case it detracts from the range. Imagine if they told you that you couldn’t switch off cruise control in your car!
My Easy Jumper is great. I can pedal with assitance or pedal with no assitance. I have used most of its power
(3/5) in 3 km of switchback trail climbing about 700 m.
I have pedeled it up hill on a designed MTB trail 14 km in sub alpine and alpine and used less than 1/2 of my battery,
I have ridden 75 km of paved rolling & flat valleys and got home with 1/2 my power left.
To go farther pedal without power downhill, on the flats and on gentle uphills or until the legs begin to complane. For me (age 73) cycling is still about exercise as well as fresh air and mountain views.
Clint
The more modern and up to date electric bikes like Juiced Bikes Crosscurrent S; allows one to use what is called “eco mode”; this basically neutralizes the extra weight of ones bike and the big fat tires and wheels and gives one enough compensating torque so that one in fact feels as they are pedaling a normal road bike;
since it uses both the pedal cadence sensor in combination with its own torque sensor; to throttle and control the actual power flowing from one electric bike batteries to be directly supplied to ones electric bike motor; the more one presses down on ones pedal the more electric motor assist one gets as a direct result;
so by simply gearing down ones electric bike and then spinning fairly fast also as well with half the pressure on ones pedals for example; the corresponding electric motor assist will also be reduced to ones electric bike; this will help to improve, preserve and optimize the electric bike batteries range in miles.
Exactly right. My Bosch system has 4 levels of assist and at 74 I normally use Evo unless faced with a long steep hill. I usually manage up to 85 mile range between charges too?
A bit surprised with the unpopularity of pedelec systems, but there are so many variations. I like the use of my system which is: both installed (PAS and throttle) with no TAG/PAS switch. There is one position on the command panel which switches both of and there are 3 more positionf, each with corresponding to a level of PAS. On each level of PAS you can freely press the throttle to go from 0-100%. Even if levelI isonly 30% of hte motor power, it still will help you up to the single top speed, whil you see many systems whish are different, at levelII, they would stop at say 60% of the top speed. I mostly ride on PAS, say level2, when I need more, I just twist the throttle to go to 100%, no ceremony pushing selection buttons. One thing with throttle all time is that you tend to use max throttle, consuming a lot more battery. It also requires a lot more coordination effort to harmonize your own leg work with the the motor support in the case of the throttle. Pedelec is moch more natural, I would say.
I have a Panasonic electric asist bike that uses a 24V NiMh battery pack. I am in my 80s and the pedal assist is great except for the battery. I have had it rebuilt twice with poor results. in that it only gives a short distance of use before recharging, about 3 or 4 miles with little or no hills
I would like to have a rebuild with lithium cells but I am told this cannot be done. Any suggestions would be appreciated..
Happy cycling.
Glenn
Do you need a licence or permit? Are they street legal?
hi dont know what im doing rong but my bike battery keeps runing out after i have had it on charge over night it is hilley were i live can any 1 help me
how do your get a controller out of safe mode ?
Hello,
Can anybody please recommend me a good pedelec conversion kit with torque sensor and, maybe, cadence sensor as well?
Thanks from PERU.
Pete…I am looking for a simple pedal assist motor for my fat bike…cadence? I still enjoy the exercise from pedalling…I need assistance getting up hills…could you or anyone suggest a suitable buy please?
Padal assist cycle gives you thrill of cycling as well comfort of more travel in short time .
I ride a throttle;/combo OHM. Allows me to avoid murdering my knees at all this stops signs that we shouldn’t breez right through. You all stop. Right?
Thanks for sharing this information with us. This information is really interesting and electric bikes are also really interesting and run fastly. So keep sharing this types of articles.
Hello peeps. I own a Samebike 20 inch wheel, E bike/city bike fold up bike. I want to buy a backup battery. So that basically i have two good batteries for the bike. So that instead of getting 40 km in pure electric mode. I will get 80 km in pure electric mode. I do not mean having two batteries operating at the same time. I mean by taking a second battery in a back pack bag. So that when my first battery is almost flat. I then disconnect the flat battery and connect the second fully charged battery. Is this possible and would i be able to buy a 2nd battery for my Samebike e bike. My battery is 10ah and runs a 350w motor. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Regards, Joe
Former racer, now 85 with lots of health issues and need oxygen. I have a Pedago Ridge Rider and love the throttle. It is great for getting started on steep and difficult terrain. Feeding in throttle gives a better ride than sensing and allows for a much effort as the rider wants to expend. Plus if you get hurt it will take you home.
Very good information I have Biked for 64 years. ELECTRIC BIKE ANCHEER for 5 months. 13 year old I had a Idea to use a washer machine motor but never worked. This is great bought a used one and refurbished it 2017 mode it only needed a battery and headlight switch. I got the Battery from Aliexpress for 60.00 had to change the interconnect cable just soldered. I have quite a hill to climb from the Beach to home that’s why I got it. I put a Schwinn luggage rack on it 18.00 at Target. The rear mounted kickstand broke off, I replaced it with wishbone center kickstand much more stable.
How to put the motor on the bike: The motor must be slotted and fastened to the frame, install the new motor chain on the bike. Place an elastic bushing on either side of the bicycle tire, behind the screws, attach a steel washer. Install the drive chain into the system, using the bracket to attach the motor to the frame. Screw the engine into place and screw the spark plug and mount the clutch near the left handlebar, you will have to remove the left handbrake and insert the other end into the engine bar. Take out the screwdriver and slowly tighten the wire Install the accelerator on the right side of the handle. Connect the fuel tank to the carburetor using the hose in the engine kit. Using the bolts included in the bike kit, attach the silencer to the exhaust. To ensure safe travel, try cycling around your neighborhood while doing different maneuvers.
An e-bike with no throttle leaves room for the rider making a choice and obviously the throttle doesn’t have to be used unless it’s needed. My health took a turn for the worse after 45+ years of biking. For daily transportation when I was a kid, two week bike trips with AYH thru Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard in the 70’s and tons of rides on my local bike trails and roads.
I was out for a ride one day(pre e-bike days) and I road to far and had a real unpleasant time getting back which was a turn off to riding. I basically stopped partly due to that ugh experience. Three years ago I bought a cheap but good Ancheer on Amazon. Had a mobile bike service assembly it and the rest is a rebirth of my love of bike riding. I get plenty of exercise and 30-40 mile rides are now typically what I do. If I tire I throttle, I mostly pedal but no more pushing myself and just to get home. Ordered a Frey full suspension am1000 5.0 mid motor (placed order dec 2019) and it arrived April 2020. Direct from factory in China it’s the color I wanted, no mfg.logo, top end fork,rear suspension, brakes, dropper post, ebike chain and a 1000watt battery-3600$ including delivery.
Needless to say I’m enjoying it. Also bought a Ride1up 500 series equipped with both 10.4 ah and a 14ah batteries. I use this bike for long bike path and road trips. Both bikes have throttles which I use guiltlessly.
I never regret an extra long ride cause I know I have 4 extra riders to call upon for help. Now biking is all enjoyment and no regrets.
I have had numerous e bike’s even one of the first one out with a nickel battery, I’m 69 years old and I have now a pedelic only bike no throttle and my thoughts are if I want a throttle I would buy a scooter, keep doing a great job with the electric bike report ! Thank you for all of the information you put out !
We have two Lectric 2.0 ST bikes, love them.
The cadence mode is very tricky when you are turning while going very slow, as the motor boost kicks in and throws off your balance.
By contrast, we love the throttles, which we use in addition to the regular bike gearing. We’ve installed 11-34 freewheels to gain a much wider and more-practical range of speeds.
One very important thing the article doesn’t mention: a couple of bikes, including the Lectric, offer CRUISE CONTROL in which a speed is held. Not a power level, but an actual speed control as on a car. So we can start up, set the throttle, hit the button, and the bike will maintain that speed, adding power on the upslope and decreasing power on the downslope.
Great bikes at a bargain price.